28/03/2023
Découvrez les différents types d'entoilage
The canvas interlining of a suit will almost single-handedly determine its durability and fit. It’s therefore a technical part that’s worth paying close attention to when buying a men’s suit (whether ready-to-wear or made-to-measure). There are three types of canvas interlining (different constructions that will have an essential impact on price, just like the fabric used): fused (the entry-level, industrial process), half-canvas (a competitive compromise that concentrates on the parts of a suit that are subject to the most stress) and full canvas (the traditional technique that requires specialized know-how).
We’ll start with the most advanced (and therefore the most expensive) construction, as it will be easier for you to understand what the other full assemblies don’t offer.
We’ll start with the most advanced (and therefore the most expensive) construction, as it will be easier for you to understand what the other full assemblies don’t offer.
The full canvas suit
This is what gives your jacket its shape. On a fully canvassed jacket, a layer of canvas is inserted between the outer shell and the lining.
This adds weight and consistency to the fabric, allowing it to fall more easily on your silhouette. The difference with fused jackets is that it will be sewn (rather than glued) to both layers. So it’ll fit your body much better.
This system is comparable to a Goodyear sewn sole on a shoe. The advantage is that you can easily fit a new one and give your shoe a second life.
It’s a similar story with a men’s suit. You can unstitch your jacket and replace the canvas after a while. Your jacket will then be almost as good as new.
This adds weight and consistency to the fabric, allowing it to fall more easily on your silhouette. The difference with fused jackets is that it will be sewn (rather than glued) to both layers. So it’ll fit your body much better.
This system is comparable to a Goodyear sewn sole on a shoe. The advantage is that you can easily fit a new one and give your shoe a second life.
It’s a similar story with a men’s suit. You can unstitch your jacket and replace the canvas after a while. Your jacket will then be almost as good as new.
The half-canvas suit
In the case of half-canvas, we’re looking for a compromise between durability and cost reduction. We often have the upper part of the suit (torso, shoulders, lapels) with sewn-in canvas. This is where most of the fall (which is important for showing off your body) will take place, and it’s also where the most heat will be absorbed, and which would be most likely to deteriorate if it were fused.
Conversely, the lower part of the jacket is fused (since it’s not really supposed to enhance the body as much as the torso).
Semi-canvas is a good construction and well worth the effort. It’s worth noting that full canvas doesn’t work for all suits, especially those with too-thin fabric. The half-canvas suit, on the other hand, is more competitive and concentrates on the jacket’s crucial points (those that are severely tested by a day’s wear).
Conversely, the lower part of the jacket is fused (since it’s not really supposed to enhance the body as much as the torso).
Semi-canvas is a good construction and well worth the effort. It’s worth noting that full canvas doesn’t work for all suits, especially those with too-thin fabric. The half-canvas suit, on the other hand, is more competitive and concentrates on the jacket’s crucial points (those that are severely tested by a day’s wear).
The fused suit
Fused suits also feature interlining. Instead of being sewn on both sides, it’s simply glued on: a faster, less costly process.
To draw a parallel with footwear, on a glued sole, nothing can be done without damaging the upper. On an fused suit, the canvas layer is bonded to the outer fabric and lining. It cannot be replaced without irreversibly damaging the other fabrics.
As a result, the lifespan is much shorter. Especially as the bonding (which is sensitive to heat) will inevitably deteriorate with wear (and perspiration). In conclusion, fused suits are less durable and don’t fall as nicely. That’s why it’s best to reconsider your purchase over €400.
How to distinguish one from another?
Pinch the outer fabric (without the lining) of the men’s suit at sleeve level (which never has structure, whether fused or canvassed). Then do the same on the chest panel, if you feel the same thickness of fabric, then it’s sewn.
If it’s much thicker, it means you’re pinching the fused interlining at the same time, so you’ve got fused construction. To distinguish half-canvas, you need to do the test at the top (canvas) and at the bottom (fused). This is called the pinch test.
The canvas is therefore an important technicality that you need to take the time to consider in the same way as the fabric used on your future suit.
If it’s much thicker, it means you’re pinching the fused interlining at the same time, so you’ve got fused construction. To distinguish half-canvas, you need to do the test at the top (canvas) and at the bottom (fused). This is called the pinch test.
The canvas is therefore an important technicality that you need to take the time to consider in the same way as the fabric used on your future suit.
