This two-piece tuxedo, with its off-white jacket , shawl collar, and double-breasted cut, is designed for grand summer evenings, outdoor galas, and summer ceremonies: an outfit that looks just as good under the lights of a gala hall as it does under the night sky.
The jacket and pants are made from 100% wool barathéa fabric by Dormeuil, in ivory for the jacket and black for the pants. The tightly woven twill fabric offers a dense, matte surface that resists wrinkles, with a very straight drape that maintains the garment’s structure no matter how long the evening lasts.
The double-breasted jacket features a generous shawl collar with a low closure, creating an enveloping silhouette that contrasts with the more pronounced V-neck, which provides a more defined cut. The result is a silhouette that is loose at the top, structured at the shoulders, and tapers toward the waist, covering the belt and the pleated pants. A cut that flatters both the figure and movement.
The jacket’s ivory or off-white color, which contrasts with the black of the pants and belt, creates one of the most striking contrasts possible in evening wear. This two-tone combination has been a staple of the summer tuxedo since the 1930s, when evening events on the French Riviera and aboard transatlantic liners called for a light-colored jacket paired with dark pants. Under artificial lighting, the jacket captures and reflects light in a way that pure white simply cannot.
The shawl collar, 9.5 cm wide, is very generous without being disproportionate: it covers the shirt collar well, allows the bow tie to be seen in its entirety, and curves gently down to the bottom button. The shawl collar is entirely matte, uniform, and seamless; it is crafted from ivory-colored barathée, just like the rest of the jacket, while the buttons are covered in off-white satin.
The pants feature two outer pleats that add volume at the hips and allow the fabric to move freely. With no back pockets and a high waistline devoid of belt loops or suspenders buttons, these pants otherwise retain all the traditional characteristics of a tuxedo.
The pleated silk sash, known as a “cummerbund, ” is the traditional alternative to a vest in a two-piece tuxedo. It has Anglo-Indian origins: adopted by British officers in India in the 19th century as a lightweight alternative to the vest in hot climates, it became part of Western formal wear starting in the 1900s. Here, in black satin, the pleats cover the waistband of the pants and create a visual continuity between the jacket and the lower half of the ensemble, which slims the silhouette.
Take a close look at every detail of Magno Scavo’s “Ivory Shawl” double-breasted tuxedo.
Designed for grand summer evenings, outdoor galas, and summer ceremonies, this tuxedo is just as elegant under the lights of a gala hall as it is under a starry sky.
Photographer:@thestoryalist