Gui Bo's three-piece tuxedo

A Take on the Tuxedo by Gui Bo

First created in the 1930s to cope with the heat of summer nights and cruises, it retains the structure of the classic tuxedo while moving away from its traditional black color. This three-piece tuxedo, crafted from Dormeuil barathée fabric with an ivory jacket and vest, offers a contemporary and personal take on the classic style, as evidenced, for example, by its wide lapels without satin trim.

Photographer: @thestoryalist

In summary,

The tuxedo is the quintessential evening wear. A more modern alternative to the tailcoat, it has established itself as a symbol of elegance and distinction.

This off-white three-piece tuxedo (jacket and vest) is designed for outdoor summer evenings, gala dinners under warm lighting, and summer ceremonies where black might be too dark for the warmth of the season.

The tuxedo as a whole

The Design

The jacket features a fitted cut with structured shoulders, a pointed collar, and a single-button closure. Both the jacket and the vest are crafted from off-white Dormeuil barathéa, while the pants are made from the same barathéa fabric but in black. Barathéa has been the fabric of choice for tuxedos for over a century. Its very tight diagonal twill weave gives it a smooth, virtually non-reflective surface, a subtle texture, and a very straight drape that resists wrinkles, even after a long evening. 

The Jacket

The jacket features 10.5 cm pointed lapels, generously wide enough to add character to the silhouette without straying from the traditional tuxedo style. The buttons are covered in ivory satin, and the pockets are straight, edged, and without flaps—the only permitted finish on a tuxedo. The fabric is 100% wool. 

The pants

The pants, made of 100% wool, feature two outside pleats, a choice that adds volume and allows for great freedom of movement without weighing down the silhouette. On these tuxedo pants, the pleats alter the drape of the fabric and reflect a bespoke approach to this garment. This freedom is in keeping with the overall spirit of Guillaume’s outfit: a tuxedo that combines comfort with a bespoke feel.

A few details,

The Color

The off-white color is due to the fabric’s wool content. In fact, with natural wool fabrics, it is not possible to achieve a pure white. That is why, in high-end fashion, whites are always off-white. The goal is not the brilliance of pure white, but a warmer shade that complements the subdued lighting of evening events. Paired with black pants, it creates a striking contrast that adds structure; this two-tone combination—an ivory jacket and black pants—is an iconic look in the world of summer tuxedos: Fred Astaire, Cary Grant, and subsequent generations of dandies on the French Riviera and in Cannes made it their trademark.

The Vest

The vest is a “gala vest.” It is a garment steeped in history. Before the cummerbund became the norm, the three-piece tuxedo with a lapel vest was the most formal version of “black tie.” The buttons are covered in off-white satin. 

The lapels

The lapels are made from the main fabric—ivory-colored barathée, without satin. This choice ensures the fabric matches the jacket, creating a monochromatic silhouette that is more sculptural than the conventional one.  

Want to see more?

Take a close look at this ivory-colored three-piece tuxedo, crafted from Dormeuil barathéa fabric, from every angle.

Whether for gala dinners or summer ceremonies, this tuxedo is the perfect choice for an elegant and confident look.

Acknowledgments,

Photographer:@thestoryalist

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