Your first made-to-measure suit: mistakes to avoid

Are you fed up with off-the-peg suits? Do you want your first proper, beautifully tailored suit, one that you’ll feel comfortable in?

You’ve finally taken the plunge and booked your first appointment for a semi-bespoke suit. To save time and ensure the result is as personalised as possible, we recommend giving the matter some thought beforehand to dispel certain misconceptions.

Trends aren’t always your best friends

A semi-bespoke suit is generally more expensive (and of higher quality) than a ready-to-wear suit. It therefore stands to reason that it should last you at least 5 to 10 years (depending on how well you look after it and how often you wear it).

You should therefore think long-term rather than focusing on current trends.

This is particularly true when it comes to lapels. Choose them to suit your body shape, rather than based on what you see on fashion blogs, at fashion shows or even in shops.

Until recently, slim lapels and cropped jackets were all the rage. Nowadays, social media is increasingly featuring very wide lapels, particularly in photographs from events such as Pitti Uomo.

Avoid choosing your lapels based on trends: instead, choose them to suit your body shape. Their role is to flatter your build by creating a V-shape.

This effect will go completely unnoticed if you have slightly broad shoulders but very narrow lapels. Conversely, lapels that are too wide on a slimmer build will make you disappear.

There’s a simple rule to get it right: choose lapels that cover about half the distance between the jacket collar and your shoulders.

As for the cut of the trousers (which also changes very frequently), the issue is less of a concern as there’s always some extra fabric to play with.

Choosing the right fabric

Here’s what we generally notice, which can help you choose the right fabric:

• the most formal fabrics are often the smoothest and darkest;
• the more casual ones are generally more textured and lighter in colour.

If, for example, you’d like a jacket that you can wear both at work and at the weekend, you’ll need to strike the right balance. Your tailor will be able to offer excellent advice on this.

To get an even better idea of your choice, you can hold the fabric up to yourself during your appointment. Holding it against your wrist gives you a better sense of how the suit will look.

Finally, when selecting the fabric, you’ll be looking at it very closely, whereas in reality it will be viewed from a distance of at least one metre. You therefore rarely notice its texture as clearly as you do when choosing it.

Take the time to look at it from this distance and, ideally, in daylight.

What sort of suit should you choose? Opt for the basics

Your first visit to a tailor is, in a way, the first step in building a proper wardrobe. Start with versatile basics, then move on to seasonal fabrics with more character.

A good plain grey or navy blue suit can be worn to the office three or four times a week. This isn’t the case, for example, with a more eye-catching suit featuring bold stripes.

It is therefore advisable to start with a plain grey or navy blue suit, which will also be the easiest to mix and match.

For the same reasons, opt first for a classic two-button suit before moving on to more distinctive styles, such as a double-breasted suit.

Don’t take into account any off-the-peg suits you already own, unless you absolutely love them and they fit you perfectly. Many men stop wearing them once they’ve discovered bespoke tailoring.

Finding the right fit

Have realistic expectations: a suit looks impeccable on a body that’s standing still. Creases will naturally appear when you move.

Also be wary of a slim fit in a semi-bespoke suit. You’ll feel it more, and it will inevitably be less comfortable. Listen to your tailor when they recommend a little extra room: they always do so with comfort and durability in mind.

Conclusion

Take the time to think carefully about your choice, but also to discuss it with your tailor, taking their recommendations into account. Their job is to use their expertise and knowledge of style and elegance to show you off to your best advantage.

They will almost certainly suggest options you may not have thought of, which will prove to be spot on.

Don’t forget to enjoy the experience, too. Appointments take place in a pleasant setting where you’ll no doubt be offered a whisky!