The art of the overcoat: how to put together elegant and comfortable outfits?

Let’s put purely synthetic or ultra-technical coats to one side for a moment. Whilst they are undeniably useful in extreme weather, they are singularly lacking in character, whether sartorial or otherwise. A man’s overcoat must fulfil a dual function: to protect you from the cold or the rain, whilst shaping your look and asserting your personality.

From the distinguished elegance of a double-breasted coat to the delicacy of a more fluid cut, it lends aesthetic appeal and an extra touch of character to the person wearing it.

1. The double-breasted overcoat

The double-breasted overcoat is the centrepiece of the formal wardrobe, the one you slip on over a suit for a crucial meeting or a formal occasion.

• The look: long, structured, with large, generous lapels and an imposing double-breasted design.
• Colours: usually cut from a heavy wool cloth, midnight blue or black, sometimes enhanced with a velvet collar.
• Style detail: rather than a pocket square – which is usually reserved for a suit – pair it with a fine pair of leather gloves or a pair of sunglasses.

Photographers: Dallk

2. The single-breasted coat: versatility and modernity

Less formal than the double-breasted coat, the single-breasted coat is the true Swiss Army knife of the man’s wardrobe. It’s the perfect piece for transitioning from the office on a Friday to a more casual look at the weekend.

• The cut: clean lines, single-breasted (3 or 4 buttons), with straight or pointed lapels. It’s a flowing silhouette that slims the frame without weighing it down.
• Fabrics & patterns: to give it character without resorting to the classic plain colour, opt for winter textures: a beautiful herringbone wool fabric, a mottled flannel or a subtle pattern.
• How to wear it: it layers just as well over a two-piece suit as it does over a chunky roll-neck jumper worn with raw denim jeans or mismatched flannel trousers.

Photographers: Dallk

3. The trench coat: the icon for rainy days

When it comes to downpours, wool has its limits. That’s where the trench coat comes in – the famous ‘trench coat’ designed by Thomas Burberry for the First World War.

• The military heritage: epaulettes, drawstring, martingale, double-breasted fastening and a buckled belt.
• Modern materials: whilst the first cotton gabardine models lacked breathability, today’s fabrics combine cotton with technical fibres for effective water repellency and controlled thermal comfort.
• The look: this timeless, cinematic piece is ideal for mid-season.

Photographers: Dallk

4. The polo coat: the iconic sartorial piece for a Blandin & Delloye wardrobe

The centrepiece of our exceptional wardrobe, the polo coat is undoubtedly our most distinctive coat and the one that best embodies the sartorial spirit of Blandin & Delloye.

• Its heritage lies on the polo fields: originated on the sidelines of polo pitches in England before gaining popularity amongst the crimson-clad students of the American Ivy League in the 1920s; it was originally thrown on hastily by players between chukkas (periods of play) to stay warm.
• Its signature details: recognisable at a glance, it is distinguished by its generous double-breasted buttoning (6×2), its wide, sharply notched lapels, its patch pockets with flaps, its cuffs and its martingale at the back.
• Its appeal: crafted from a fine, heavy wool, the polo coat commands an unrivalled presence. It is the overcoat of the true connoisseurs of fashion: a piece full of character, majestic and warm, which single-handedly embodies all the craftsmanship of a bespoke garment.

Photographers: Dallk

A world of bespoke possibilities

These four flagship models are, of course, just a glimpse of the possibilities offered by our workshop. Bespoke tailoring allows you to explore many other silhouettes to suit your needs.

• The car coat: short, straight and ultra-versatile, it is the quintessential dynamic coat, ideal for frequent travel and everyday wear.
• The officer’s coat: characterised by its crisp, military-style stand-up collar, it creates a sharp silhouette and a very assertive look.
• The pea coat: part of our range of formal overcoats, this classic nautical style lends itself remarkably well to elegant draping for a structured, urban elegance.
• An expanded range of raincoats: going beyond the traditional trench coat, we offer more streamlined or minimalist raincoats to weather the elements with ease.
• Casual outerwear & hybrid pieces: for more relaxed outfits that can easily be worn without a suit jacket, the quilted jacket or safari jacket are ideal alternatives for the mid-season.

Photographers: Dallk

Author: @romain.pizzanelli

Find our full range of overcoats right here