The history of men’s suits: how did they become a must-have?

The foundations of the suit as we know it today were laid in the late 19th century. It was notably Beau Brummell, regarded as the father of dandyism, who helped to establish a new concept of masculine elegance at the English royal court.

Brummell was then a close associate of the Prince of Wales, the future King of the United Kingdom. The Prince enjoyed considerable prestige and exerted a genuine stylistic influence on his era. The sartorial style championed by Brummell thus gradually spread throughout the Western world before becoming established.

The first suits: an evolving silhouette

The very first form of the modern men’s suit consisted of a three-button jacket, with small notched lapels that rose quite high, paired with a waistcoat.

At the time, people mainly fastened the top two buttons, which created a vertical line and helped to visually lengthen the silhouette.

However, changing lifestyles would soon lead to changes in this design. The growth of urban environments and pollution linked to industrialisation, in particular, caused temperatures in cities to rise. The waistcoat, which added an extra layer, thus became less practical, and men gradually began to do without it.

At the same time, the button placket moved down the jacket. This development naturally led to the emergence of the two-button suit, which gradually became the norm.

With a lower button placket, the suit better accentuates the torso. Darts then served to emphasise this construction and give the silhouette a V-shape, a feature particularly sought after in men’s elegance.

White trousers bridge the gap between sartorial and casual chic.

And that is precisely why I find them interesting.

Photographers: Dallk

Notched lapels: from evening wear to business attire

Piquet lapels would also play an important role in this quest for a V-shaped silhouette, particularly during the interwar period.

Originally, they were mainly used on single-breasted evening jackets. But they quickly became part of the business wardrobe and daytime attire, where their use became increasingly common whilst retaining a high level of formality.

Today, peaked lapels can be incorporated into many styles of men’s wardrobes: festive, formal or business.

They also offer an interesting alternative to the double-breasted suit. A single-breasted jacket with peaked lapels is, in fact, less formal and, above all, easier to wear on a daily basis. Unlike a double-breasted suit, it can be worn unbuttoned and offers a much wider opening across the chest.

The three-piece suit: elegance with a jacket

The jacket as we know it today draws its inspiration, in particular, from the uniform worn by postmen in England in the 19th century. Its purpose was primarily practical: to provide an extra layer and protect against the cold.

It was therefore commonly worn in winter, under the suit jacket.

Today, the wearing of the jacket has become much less common, particularly under the influence of mass-marketfashion , which favours simple, easy-to-produce designs. The two-button two-piece suit has therefore become the standard.

However, the three-piece suit has many advantages. It is both more formal and particularly versatile, provided the jacket is correctly proportioned.

A good jacket should cover the waistband of the trousers and extend very slightly above the jacket button. If it sits too high, it risks hiding too much of the tie. Conversely, it should not allow the shirt placket to show excessively.

It is also best to avoid low-waisted trousers with a three-piece suit. The role of the waistcoat is not to reveal the belt or the shirt, which would disrupt the continuity of the silhouette, but rather to create a harmonious transition between the jacket and the trousers.

Photographers: Dallk

Why is the bottom button of the waistcoat never fastened?

The rule is that the top button of a waistcoat should always remain undone.

A frequently told anecdote attributes this custom to an English monarch who, being unable to fasten the top button of his waistcoat due to his corpulence, is said to have decided to leave it open. His court is said to have subsequently adopted this practice out of imitation and courtesy.

Whether historically accurate or not, this custom has now become a true rule of masculine elegance.

There is also a similar story concerning the top button of a jacket.

Nineteenth-century aristocrats used to leave the top button undone after meals in order to be more comfortable. The practice gradually evolved into a dress code. Today, therefore, one never fastens the top button of a two-button jacket.

And beyond tradition, there is a purely aesthetic reason: the jacket simply hangs more elegantly that way.

The suit today: between simplicity and a return to tailoring

Nowadays, the three-button suit has all but disappeared, despite a brief resurgence in the 1990s. Its construction is less in line with the expectations and habits of the contemporary gentleman, who is looking, in particular, for greater comfort and practicality, such as being able to use his pockets easily.

The two-button suit has therefore become the market standard. Regardless of price range, it is now found in the vast majority of collections.

The double-breasted suit, on the other hand, remains a niche item. It is more commonly found among bespoke tailors and in the most prestigious fashion houses, where its distinctive character and unique construction are still fully appreciated.

And that is precisely what makes it an interesting addition to a man’s wardrobe: it is not necessarily about wearing one every day, but about owning at least one.

For the history of the suit ultimately shows us one thing: far from being set in stone, it has constantly evolved alongside our lifestyles, our customs and our relationship with elegance. And whilst certain rules may seem immutable today, they are often the result of a long history, shaped by customs, practical constraints and, at times… a few delightful anecdotes.

 
Photographers: Dallk

Article written by @yves_dron

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